Steering Wheel Airbag
Steering Wheel Airbag
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Steering techniques
Throught my experience, which includes several observations and tests being put out in autocrosses (gymkhanas), race tracks, rally tracks, road tracks and skid-pans, I have come the conclusion that handling the wheel at a certain way will have a dramatic effect, in the long term, on driving performance.
Following the guidelines of this article, you will find your car to be very obedient, and the steering will suddenly become "automated", and easy, as though if the car is turning tightly with the wheel bearly turned. You will find out that thus far you have turned the wheel too much, and with excessive effort.
First off, three things to make your steering, whatever the technique you use, better:
1. If you are trying to master a new technique than you will have to put some focus on your hands, or even look from time to time of the steering wheel. Such practices are better done in empty car lots. After you have had "basic training", you can keep your eyes and mind outside the car, looking where you want to go, even if it means that, when cornering, you have to look once or twice through the side window.
2. Take corners in a wide angle, as far as your lane enables you to. If poosible, turn wide by "almost" invading the other lane.
3. The turn-in should be done with very very light braking (trail braking), or at least without acceleration. This will increase the tire patches due to weight transfer, and it's unlikly to unsettle the rear. Yes, some traction is than used for braking, but it's better than acclerating (weight shifts off the guiding wheels and remaining traction is used for acceleration). After you turn in, than you can move to "neutral throttle".
The "canon" steering techniques which are used in roadcraft are generally not to my liking. I will state the different techniques and compare them, to enable you, readers, to end up with your own conclusions:
1. Fixed-input steering
This is a simple practice, very popular on race tracks, though it has a much more limited place in roadcraft. It generally involves holding the wheel at a specific position and just move it about with both hands. This way, you can turn smoothly or, if nessecary, turn fast. You can also keep contol maxed out and have a very good idea on where the wheels are pointing and when they are straight. Unfortunatly, most driving instructors teach the 10 to-2 position, which is generally reliable in terms of leverage and control, and has the advantage of comfort for the shoulders, as the weight of the hands lays on the rim. It does has it's flaws:
1. Limited control: You have significantly less control in 10 to-2, and almost zero feedback, especially once the wheel is turned. It's also not smoother, in any speed. This position also encourages lazy handling, and has less strengh (have someone try and pull the wheel away from your grip at 10 to-2 and 9:15)
2. Limited leverage: When you turn, the 10 to-2 position is not so comfortable. The hands are not working symetrically and can't "cover" for one another, losing grip, control, force and knoledge on the direction of the front wheels. Both hands sort of "collapse" into bends, so the body is thrown out of balance, the forearms cross, the wrists twist, and the whole mess lays directly on your shoulders, which have less control.
3. Limited accessibility: in the 10 to-2 position, your access to the lights, signals, horn and other buttons on or around the wheel is limited. Even if controls such as the A/C or gearshifters are not located on the wheel, they are further away from you in 10 to-2 than in lower grip. For some people, the 10 to-2 grip might also mean that the arms obstruct the view at the dashboard.
4. Safety issues: Most modern cars have airbag. Usually, such bags deploy at over 320 km per hour. At the same time, a force of several tens of mph is pushing the hands in the opposite direction. This can break or bruise the hands, and send them flying at your face. Also, if you put your thumbs inside the wheel, they can break when the wheel shakes due to a bump.
The 9 to-3 position allows for maximum control, force and leverage of up to 270 degrees. You also have good accessibilty, especially in newer cars. Furthermore, the wheel is usually made to be held this way. The spores usually connect to the rim at 9 and 3, enabling to put your thumbs on the "crossbrace", just under the bumps on the inside of the rim. Unless you go off road, your thumbs should be safe. Now, you can manage a relaxed grip, which will make it easier for you and enable for more feedback and accesibility, since you can wiggle your fingers or use them to operate the lights, while still gripping the wheel. You are also safe from the airbag, so there is no need to adapt the 8 to-4 position which is worst in terms of control, accesibilty, comfortability, and is the most dangerous to your thumbs.
With the 9 to-3 position, fixed-input steering has more place for it in roadcraft. Whenever traveling generally straight, only switching lanes or making it through small curves, the fixed-input steering is reconmended. It enables for slow and smooth steering applications, or for a quick response to emergencies.
2. Hand over-hand steering
For actual turns, the hand over-hand method was sometimes taught. I personally agree with other instructors and race drivers, that this style is generally reliable and is not as outdated as some my consider it. With slight modifications -- it serves many of the greatest rally drivers in a sufficient manner. It involves crossing the hands over, pulling and pushing. The problem is that you are putting furth great effort for relatively small inputs, and you lose control, accuracy and smoothness, particularly if you hook the palms inside the wheel.
Some Rally drivers would relocate the pushing hand lower before a sharp bend, to increase leverage. Others would keep up with the pushing hand all the way around, about 300 degrees, using the other hand as "support" up to that point. (As it is instructed in BMW advanced driving schools). Anyhow, it's a reliable practice, but it's still the least efficient, save "palming" (which at least has the advantage of easy manouvering in slow speeds).
3. Hand to-hand steering
This is a newer practice in roadcraft, with a bit of use in race driving. It has been perfected into what we call "shuffle" steering, or "pull push". Unlike the hand over-hand method, this time each hand stays on it's respectable side of the rim, the pulling hand than goes up on top, pulls down, alternates grip to the left hand which pushes up, and so on. With practice, it can be perfected into a quite smooth operation. But it has the disadvantages of a slow and quite unnatural application, which, amongst other things, is twisting your wrists.
This practice generally belongs to none-power-steering cars. Since such cars still exist, I would suggest that this style be used, but only when making it in slow-speed manouvering when parking. Once you have set off, you can handle it like a car with power steering. Actually, it is crucial that, with such a steering wheel, that steering be done correctly, as I will demonstrate further on.
4. Palming
This is a popular method of hadling the wheel with one hand, which is able to execute infinite amplitudes by using the palm to "wax" the wheel. In higher speeds, or once the demands on steering are higher, it's extremly inefficient, and that's to add to it's twisting of the spine. However, in modern cars, it has it's place, when making slow speed manouvering when parking. I will shed more light on it later.
5. Push and control
This is unique steering technique sometimes used in racing. This time, both hands are brought close to each other, and are than used in a long pushing movement, to bring the wheel round quickly. The problem with this method is that it puts the driver out of balance for a generally small steering application, and makes him steer with shoulder muscles, which are strong, but very not sensitive. The main claim for this style is that, unlike pulling down in the hand to-hand method, it's done with a steady wrist. However, in this method the wheel can bearly be turned at all (220 degrees), so that it's not very practical, even on the race track (say, for hairpins), and furthermore outside of it. I will also demonstrate how you can pull without moving you wrist around as much.
6. Dual-movement steering
This is a much more popular technique used in race driving. It involves holding the wheel at the fixed-position before the corner, than relocating both hands before the corner, so that when you turn in with both hands, they idealy return to the 9:15 position, on both sides of the wheel, mid-center. This way, you are apexing (turning) with maximum balance, control and abilty to turn the wheel more in each direction, for small corrections or for large corrections, which should be enough for every turn that suddenly tightens, every skid to be controled or obstacle to be avoided.
This method, like the previous one, also has a limited use, because you can't relocate your hands to enable more than 120 degrees of steering input or so. Also, by compeltly relocating the hands, you lose the infortmation about where the wheels are pointing, and to turn it back straight you usually need to let it slide. However, the abilty of making it through the corner working all the way with both hands is a great bonus, so overall I reconmend to use this method when you approach wide corners on the road (say, an access ramp to the highway). You relocate both hands against the direction of the corner, placing them at 12 and 6 (top and bottom of the wheel), and than swing the wheel back to 9 to-3. This way, any additional steering adjustments are a direct and flowing continue of the original steering input, and steering can be put in progressively and with maximum feel and readiness.
To bring it back, pull it down with one hand from 12 O'clock to 9 or 3 accordingly.
7. Pull steering
This method is a classic Rally driving method, and it is the best approach for most corners. Like the dual-movement method, this technique is also about making adjustments just before the corner, so that when you turn-in, both hands are again in 9 to-3. However, unlike the push and control style, this method favors leading the action with the pulling hand, as it has more sensitivity due to use of arm and palm muscles, and it's still powerfull due to use of back muscles. It's also easier for the driver. The wrist remains quite steady, because we are not pulling down towards 6 O'Clock, like in the hand to-hand method, but are pulling from the "wrong" side of the steering wheel and can therefore, with a bit of practice, keep the wrist generally stable, even more than it is while pushing, since we are also using back muscles, and not only the palm muscles.
For most city corners, a 180 degrees rotation of the wheel is nessecary. So, if I were to turn left, I would position my hands at 9:15. My right hand is stationary, while the left hand goes just above it. At that moment, the right hand losses grip, and lets the rim slide under it in a controlled manner, while the right hand pulls the wheel untill it gets back to 9 O'Clock. Now, the car is turning, but the hands are again in 9 to-3. To bring it back straight, the right hand will not move above the left and pull towards 3 O'Clock. This gives us the additional advantage of both hands working symetrically, and we are also able to have a very good idea on where the wheels are pointing at all times, and always keeping one hand holding the wheel firmly.
Tighter turns are made by turning the wheel 270 degrees. The pulling hand goes on bottom of the wheel (6 O'clock), and holds the wheel as it is upside-down, with the wrist as steady as possible, and pulls under the stationary hand, back to where it stated from. It might be a bit complicated at first, but eventually it can be perfected, and two such succesive pulls are enough to make it through a tight U-Turn.
As far as turning the car is concerned, cornering must be destinguished from making it through fast curves, which -- as I said -- is done gently with fixed-input steering. When making it through small, fast curves, the idea is to be smooth and gentle. In an actual corner, though, the action needs to be quite decisive, almost "sharp", depending on how tight the corner is (the tighter the corner, the more quick is the steering). Such handeling will "force" the car to change direction (while, in curves, the car keeps up in the same direction) by creating a chain reaction of the suspension, and by creating friction, which slows down the front wheels and shifts weight over them. In the wet, a decisive action is even more important than on the dry. In such slippery conditions, the car might react to such an input with a short "delay", but if you don't turn the wheel more, the car will eventually make the turn in the best way. When turning the wheel back to straight, the action is far slower, but the wheel should not be let to slide on it's own.
Going a bit back, to "palming". When making really slow-speed manouvering, this hand work can be made easier by palming the wheel with the pulling hand for as much as nessecary.
This combination of hand work: fixed-input, dual-movement, pulling and palming (or hand to-hand instead of palming, if you don't have power steering) will make steering much easier and far more accurate, even in high speeds, wet conditions, bad steering, or a series of bends.
About the Author
The writer is a race and Rally driver, with much practice in the defensive driving area.
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