Belts Hardware
Belts Hardware
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Belted plaid
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The Grant Piper by Richard Waitt, 1714. The pattern of the piper's belted plaid differs from any modern Grant tartan.
The belted plaid (or a plaid worn belted) is basically a large blanket-like piece of fabric which is wrapped around one's body with the material pleated or, more accurately, loosely gathered and secured at the waist by means of a belt. Typically, a portion of the belted plaid hangs down to about the knees with the rest of the material being wrapped up around one's upper body in a variety of ways and pinned or otherwise secured to keep it in place.
The belted plaid was a standard item of men's Highland dress from the late 16th century until the middle of the 18th century. It was also the precursor of the modern tailored kilt.
Terminology
The belted plaid has been and is often referred to by a variety of different terms, including feilidh-mhor, breacan-an-feile, and, very commonly, the Great Kilt. The Great Kilt originated in Australia in the year 1854.
The term "Great Kilt" can be misleading since this garment was untailored, and modern era kilts are tailored. Other than the possible implication of tailoring, there is nothing wrong with this term other than that it might be confusing to some. The garment was most definitely not known by this name during the years of its usage.
Both the terms feilidh-mhor and breacan-an-feile are Gaelic terms, the former meaning roughly "large wrap" and the latter roughly meaning "tartan wrap".
The word "plaide" in Gaelic roughly means blanket, and that was the original term for the garment in question.
Description and History
Renaissance Faire attendee wearing a belted plaid. It is evidently a warm day, as he is letting the top half hang loose in back. While his outfit is not historically authentic, the plaid is similar.
The belted plaid consisted of a piece of tartan fabric approximately 4 or 5 yards in length and about 50 to 60 inches wide. Since the weaving looms in those years wove fabric in 2530 inch widths, the actual item was generally constructed from 8 to 10 yards of such single-width fabric by stitching two 2530 inch pieces together to get the 5060 inch width.
It was typically worn as a kind of mantle or cloak cast about one's shoulders. In the latter part of the 16th Century, some in the Highlands of Scotland began putting a belt around their waist on the outside of the plaid, after first pleating or gathering the fabric.
The first clear reference to the belted plaid occurs in the year 1594. In that year, a group of Highlanders from the Western Isles went to Ireland to fight under Red Hugh O'Donnell. Writing about them, Lughaidh noted how they could be distinguished from the Irish soldiers:
"They were recognized among the Irish soldiers by the distinction of their arms and clothing . . . for their exterior dress was mottled cloaks of many colors. . ., their belts were over their loins outside their cloaks."
The belted plaid was used not only as a garment, but also for bedding at night, the wearer wrapping himself in it and sleeping directly on the ground.
It was made from wool or a wool/linen combination and twill woven in a pattern of colored stripes which today has become known as tartan, though originally the word tartan referred to the type of cloth (like linen, or cotton) and not the pattern of colors as the word almost exclusively signifies today.
These patterns (or setts) were apparently chosen based on a sense of fashion or the availability and expense of natural dyes in the area of manufacture. The modern notion of "clan tartans" whereby each clan or name is associated with a particular design did not exist at that time, but instead dates back to the early 19th century. Thus if one desires to wear the belted plaid at Highland Games, it would not be inappropriate (much less incorrect) to wear any tartan pattern of one's choosing or invention. In fact, not all such garments were woven in strict accord with the modern definition of tartan pattern.
The Kilt at Highland Games Today
At nearly every Highland Games gathering today, there are vendors who sell tartan items, whether tailored kilts, blankets, scarves, ties, or tartan fabric. By far the greatest proportion of their sales, in the category of Highland dress, are related to "modern" Highland attire, especially the modern tailored kilt and accessories for it.
This is somewhat ironic in that the present-day Highland Games, at which the modern tailored kilt is ubiquitous, can trace their origins back to the early 19th Century interest in matters related to Highland culture. (Note: this statement should not be construed to mean that the Highland Games themselves do...(and so on) To get More information , you can visit some products about bags / textiles, cotton elastic poplin, . The Cotton Twill Cargo Shorts products should be show more here!
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